Budget Airline Blues? How to Make the Most of It and Ace Your Long Layover in Copenhagen

Given the Nordic reputation for all things clean and precise, it will come as no surprise that traveling between the airport and the city is simple, and relatively enjoyable. It’s only a 15-minute ride on the metro to Kongens Nytorv, in the center of the city. The price of the one-way journey is about $5.

When Americans unthinkingly refer to their sickeningly-sweet, pre-packaged morning pastries as Danishes, they’re committing a grave epicurean sin. Thankfully, a long layover in Copenhagen is a fine way to atone for this wrongdoing.


Visitors to Copenhagen are spoiled for choice when it comes to bakeries, but one of our favorites is Reinh. Van Hauen. This storied little shop has been around for almost 140 years and is currently operated by a father-and-son duo. The Danish pastry as we know it actually originated in Austria, where thin layers of sugar- or butter-laminated dough have been part of the viennoiserie baking tradition for centuries. By the mid-19th century, the Danes adopted the flaky, slightly crispy yet slightly chewy Danish that’s inspired a million poor imitations. 


Only a five-minute walk from the Kongens Nytorv Metro station, Reinh. Van Hauen has racks of pastries that -- upon first glance -- certainly look like those sad sugar-glazed disks lining continental breakfast buffets across the world. Trust us, though, that’s where the similarities end. To really hammer home that sugar rush, the bakery slings excellent coffee as well.

A quick search for information on Copenhagen is likely to come back with rows of images of colorful houses lining the city's harbor. Those photos are of Nyvahn, and it's every bit as photogenic as social media implies. Dating back to the 17th century, quaint sailboats dock along the narrow canal, and the streets on either side are lined with colorful, classically Danish three- and four-story buildings. This is to say nothing of the sidewalk cafes up and down the canal, where a mix of locals and travelers kick back their Tuborgs and Carlsbergs.


During its heyday, Nyvahn was known for drunken sailors and plenty of scandalous behavior. These days it’s a far more mannered part of town, right near institutions like the Amalienborg Palace and Royal Danish Theater. Depending on how long your layover is, a one-hour guided canal tour might be an option. Plenty of companies run boat tours that depart from Nyvahn, passing sights like the famous Little Mermaid statue, commemorating the work of Hans Christian Andersen, and Our Saviour’s Church, with its iconic corkscrew spire.


For those who prefer their culture on land, the Charlottenborg Palace sits along the canal’s western edge. Built in 1754, it's home to the Royal Danish Academy of Art and the Kunsthal Charlottenborg, one of the city’s finest contemporary art spaces. Stepping into the palace’s mossy cobblestoned courtyard provides an immediate hush from busy Nyvahn. Inside, the juxtapositions continue, as frequently mind-bending installations sit next to sash windows and towering ceilings lined with crown molding. There’s also a quaint cafe and an excellent bookstore.

When we visit hotels, one of our favorite design trends is Scandinavian chic -- though it's maybe not quite accurate to call it a trend, as the classic style has proved to last. This simple aesthetic is sexy, clean, and timeless -- and Copenhagen happens to be one of Scandinavia's capitals of minimalist cool. Most tourists will head to Stroget, a series of linked pedestrian avenues that are lined with a mix of luxury and high-end retailers. Some boutiques are Danish, but many might feel a bit too familiar to the international traveler.


For wares that are more authentically local -- and a walk that’s a bit calmer than what can be had on Stroget -- stroll Laederstraede instead. The road begins just west of Nyvahn, and this semi-pedestrianized strip is home to a dizzying array of bespoke outlets. You'll find everything from antiques to locally designed clothing to sharp graphic art to stylish home-goods shops. From here, cut north around City Hall, Tivoli Gardens, and the train station to make your way for lunch in trendy Veseterbro.

Here’s the tea: Like any good up-and-coming neighborhood, Vesterbro is equal parts shady and chic. At the east end of the neighborhood near the train station, there are sex shops and signs warning against hiring sex workers. At the other end are galleries, design shops, and cafes galore. Discussions of ethics and culture aside, it makes for a fascinating area of contrasts, and everything is -- of course -- bounded by quaint little streets and charming historic buildings.


The bulk of Vesterbro’s shops and cafes line Istedgade, a street running southwest from the train station. Picking a lunch or brunch spot might be a little overwhelming in this foodie neighborhood, but we love Skank. It's exactly the charming cafe most travelers to Europe have in mind when they arrive, with chunky wood tables, hip decor, and cheerful staff (that speaks almost perfect English -- as do many Copenhagen residents). Go for the "morgen" plates, the brunch options that are served until late on the weekends. Available in two sizes, the dishes come as an array of small plates including eggs, fruit, house-made breads, local cheeses, fresh jams, and confections.


There are plenty of other options to choose from in Vesterbro, including Kul, which fuses Danish culinary traditions with Southeast Flavors, or old-school hipster dive Bang & Jensen. Want something even more traditional? Opt for a smorrebrod -- open-face sandwiches -- at local institutions like unpretentious Cafe Dyrehaven or funky Mad & Kaffe -- both on Sonder Boulevard. For those who have even more time to kill, check out the exhibitions at the city’s famed V1 Gallery.


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