ReefView Apartments

It might come as a surprise to arriving guests that the quirky white cottage standing tall above its neighbors on a quiet, dead-end rural road is in fact a hotel. There’s not a sign anywhere in sight -- not where the long, bumpy dirt path meets the main road, nor anywhere near the property itself. This sleepy neighborhood is typical of the island. At one far end is a path scattered with shacks and cottages that leads to a tiny, wild beach. Meanwhile children chase stray kittens in the road as Nick (the hotel’s British owner) tinkers under the hood of a big truck.

Upon arrival, guests are welcomed into a cluttered, semi-enclosed ‘lobby’ on the porch of the main house (which is occupied by the owner-couple) and a raggedy bunch of furry friends. Stray dogs and cats who’ve become permanent house guests freely roam the small property, while an extravagantly feathered macaw stands guard at the entrance.

The feel here is decidedly local and definitely no-frills, qualities that the owners pride themselves on. Nick’s wife Karolle has gleefully appropriated a guests’ labeling of the experience as “glamping” -- the place seems neither rustic nor modern enough to warrant a different description, though there's nothing exactly glam about it. And that's the point. Those who come here are usually looking for a unique, simple stay: most often guests are British and Italian couples. 

Situated in Cades Bay on the southwest side of Antigua, this relaxed inn is in a rural area and not listed on Google Maps. Getting here requires driving through a lush rainforest, and the immediate area around the hotel is so quiet, it feels almost abandoned. The handful of simple shacks and fishermen out on the water at the local beach are the only signs of life. 

A public bus stops within a minute or so of the property for local transportation, but most guests rely on their own cars. Shops, restaurants, and nightlife at Jolly Harbour are about 10 minutes away by car. There are also some local places within a few minutes of the property -- like a small pastry shop down the street, selling tasty currant rolls and meat pies. The local beach is a seven-minute walk away, but nicer beaches are within a five-minute drive, including Darkwood and Turner’s Beaches. 

The Epicurean grocery store is about a 15-minute drive from the hotel. A fish market is just around the corner at Urlings Harbour and is open daily with fresh catches. Otherwise, local favorite Chappy’s is about five minutes away on foot and serves seafood, too. Dennis Cocktail Bar and Restaurant has great lunch options, and is just under a five-minute drive away. Dining and nightlife options at English Harbour take at least 45 minutes to find. St John’s is about a 30-minute drive, and the VC Bird International Airport is a 25-minute drive. 

The accommodations here are the owners' one-of-a-kind creations. The Beach Loft, situated just to the left of the main house, features a private barbecue area with a table and shaded porch, and an entrance encircled in leafy trees and flowers. The wooden interior walls, limited light sources, and assorted simple furnishings give this cottage the appearance of a summer-camp cabin. 

The downstairs space features a living room with a tube-style TV and some couches. There is also a tiny kitchenette with a toaster, stove-top, microwave, mini-fridge, and plenty of utensils and cookware. Just next to that, there's a tiny bathroom with a toilet and small sink separated by a mere curtain -- somewhat awkward in its proximity to the kitchen. Guests have also reported plumbing issues with the toilets. But this cottage wins points for its huge outdoor shower surrounded by tall walls for ultimate privacy. DIY stairs up to the loft bedroom feel somewhat precarious as they're steep and have a loose railing. The bedroom has a simple, romantic charm, with white gauzy curtains over the four-poster bed that looks out to sea. 

The Oceanview Penthouse, behind the main house, is brighter and has slightly more updated decor and amenities. White walls and otherwise neutral tones dominate the living area and full kitchen, which offers a proper stove and oven, full-size refrigerator, and an assortment of cookware. This apartment still manages to have a homey vibe, thanks to the owners' random trinkets sprinkled through the space. The outdoor deck grants a breezy view of the neighborhood, and the ocean is visible in the distance. 

The third cottage, the Seaview Garden Apartment, has bright white decor accented with blues and greens. A beautiful wooden chest cluttered with books and games makes this cottage feel particularly family-friendly. It also features a screened-in porch, a kitchen with a full stove/oven, and a bathroom with a shower/tub combo. 

Mosquitos come out in full force (especially at night), so it’s best to keep windows closed and use the provided bug spray. 

While the hotel advertises proximity to a beach, this is not the typical white-sand and turquoise-water combination common for Antigua. Instead, it features brownish sand, murky water, and very little shade other than a single thatched palapa. It's worth noting that this wild beach gets swarmed with no-see-ums (sand flies) after dark. Nevertheless, it’s a pleasant, easy stroll to get here. 

The extra amenities on-site are limited, though Karolle offers to do guests’ laundry at an additional fee. A series of snorkeling trips, fly fishing, and other excursions around the island can also be arranged. She also seems to have tamed a natural herb and fruit garden, which she happily shares with guests as they’re harvested. Wi-Fi and self-parking are both free.