Hotel Montelirio

Housed in a 17th-century palace, Hotel Montelirio has a classic decor to match its dramatic and historic setting. Some of the spaces here have the feel of an old gentleman’s club -- like the reception area, with lots of dark wood and terra cotta pot plants; and the cozy little lounge with paneled wooden ceilings, solid wood bookcases, and a fireplace. Chandeliers and candelabras are just some of the details that make this intimate hotel ooze traditional charm. The hallways are filled with light thanks to the atrium-style design, and the dimly-lit look suits the ambience in the cozy lounge. However, keep in mind that the limited natural light in other areas -- like some of the guest rooms -- won’t be to all tastes. The hotel is oriented towards tourist couples seeking a quiet and picturesque property that’s steeped in history.

From its entrance on a narrow cobblestone street, there’s little to hint at the jaw-dropping views that lie on the other side of Hotel Montelirio. This hotel sits on the edge of Ronda’s famous El Tajo Gorge, almost adjacent to Puente Nuevo, and has fantastic views of the River Guadalevin. The deep gorge runs through the heart of the city, with the Puente Nuevo spanning its highest point. The city’s main attractions can all be reached within a short walk, including the Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballeria de Ronda -- a bullfighting ring dating back to the 18th century -- which is a five-minute walk away. The hotel is also within walking distance of restaurants and bars, as well as a few souvenir shops, local museums, and other hotels. Getting to Malaga and its airport takes around an hour and a half by car.

Rooms vary in size and decor, though common motifs include hardwood floors, Narnia-like wardrobes, gilded mirrors, and charming candelabras. Some rooms have bold Andalusian decor, while others are done with a more neutral palette. Top-floor rooms have wood-beam ceilings that add even more character. Amenities in all rooms include air-conditioning, free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, and coffee- and tea-making facilities. Like the rooms, traditional bathrooms also vary and range from compact white-tiled nooks that squeeze in small stall showers, bidets, ornamental sinks, and heated towel racks, to larger terra cotta-tiled spaces with shower/tub combos. Toiletries, make-up mirrors, and wall-mounted hairdryers are provided. Standard Double Rooms have seating areas with sofas and bureaus, and views over the street to other historic buildings. Standard Double Rooms with a View get a bit more natural light, and in our opinion are worth the upgrade for the vantages over the valley and gorge. Junior Suites are particularly spacious and feature 12th-century furniture plus large seating areas, and Juliet balconies with panoramic views. Rooms are reached by an elevator, or wooden or marble stairways. Downsides are largely on the practical side -- previous guests comment on small bathrooms or dark rooms.

Hotel Montelirio has the features that travelers would expect for its size and age. A traditional restaurant, Albacara, serves up signature Andalusian dishes like roasted suckling pig and salt-baked sea bream alongside a decent wine list. It draws locals as well as tourists, and tables by the windows are in high demand, especially at sunset. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are available, though no meals are included in rates. A bar terrace has patio heaters so that guests can enjoy the dramatic views year-round. The same can’t be said of the small unheated pool -- perched on the edge of the gorge -- which is out of bounds during cooler months. A small lounge and library with computer are both cozy spots to relax. Wi-Fi is free throughout the property. There are parking restrictions in town, and though guests can unload their luggage in front of the hotel, there’s no parking permitted outside. That's available in a nearby parking lot for a fee.